Most people will plan or renovate a kitchen sometime in their life. offers you some useful tips to help you plan your kitchen. Even if you are not planning to design and build your kitchen, some of the following tips will help prepare you for a discussion with a professional kitchen planner.
In the following section we mainly make use of centimetre measures. This is because most metric tape measures use centimetres and because many kitchen dimensions are usually expressed using cm. You might prefer to work in millimetres or metres but part of the versatility of the metric system is the ability to convert using factors of 10 or 100.
The starting point in planning a kitchen build or renovation is to be very clear about what you need. A simple checklist is:
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You are unlikely to have unlimited freedom to do what you want. You will have physical and budgetary constraints. A simple checklist is:
In order to get an efficient kitchen layout it is important to know what tasks are most frequently done and to imagine what journeys around the kitchen are needed to complete a task.
For tasks you do frequently it is important to ensure that the different work places are sufficiently closely located. A study carried out by Cornell University in the 1950s established the notion of the ‘work triangle’ based on many tasks requiring going to the fridge, cooker and sink. Your tasks may be different, for example going to the freezer, microwave oven and dishwasher but the principle of thinking through your tasks remains equally important.
Essential Kitchen Dimensions You Need To Know
It makes sense to use metric when planning a kitchen because kitchen units and domestic appliances are designed in standard metric sizes. If you do your planning in feet and inches you are likely to get muddled and have an ill-fitting kitchen.
Kitchen cabinets are usually 60 cm deep and have widths that are multiples of 10 cm or 15 cm. This sizing is illustrated by the base units shown below.
Drawer units are usually offered in a variety of widths. Larder units are usually 30 cm wide and appliance units 60 cm wide.
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If you have a room less than 180 cm wide you cannot comfortably use standard 60 cm deep units. Some manufacturers offer 50 cm deep units but they may be difficult to combine with appliances.
Most unit doors open up to a maximum of 60 cm. Dishwashers doors usually open by 60 cm and oven doors usually about 50 cm.
Between runs of kitchen units should be a minimum of 120 cm. If more than one person is working in the kitchen
Proper Depth For Frameless Cabinets
Is 90 cm, although this will not necessarily be ideal for everybody. Ensure that the elbow height is a few centimetres above the worktop height for the main kitchen user. This helps make tasks like chopping comfortable. If the main user is very tall consider using an enlarged plinth to ensure comfort. Similarly a very short kitchen user ideally requires a lower plinth to reduce the height of the worktop.Proper Depth for Frameless Cabinets In a long discussion, cabinetmakers share observations, opinions and experiences about the dimensions of frameless cabinets. December 14, 2005
In 20 years of business, this is the first time a client has requested frameless from me. So I have a couple of stupid questions.
The cabinets themselves are really 23 1/4 deep and the door makes up the last 3/4 for a total of 24, correct? How far down do you keep the components from the countertops (probably stone), 1/8, 1/4?
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I am building a tall pantry unit with a pair of doors on top and a bank of three drawers below. I am assuming that I would keep the drawer fronts slightly inside of the total width so that they match the doors above, because the Euro hinges require 1/16-1/8 inset from the outer edge of the cabinet.
I don't do frameless these days, but it is the same. 24 net deep carcass. 25 deep countertop overhangs doors by 1/8 to 3/16. Yes, the drawer fronts would be sized in the width to match the width of a door or pair of doors that are in line with it. As far as components, I think if you build to net at least a 36 high countertop, you will have it covered.
48. When building frameless cabinets, do you order 5' wide ply instead of 4'? Or do you cut your stock at 23 7/8 (plus edgebanding thickness)? Then you can get your two strips from your ply. Same thing with 12 standard uppers - does that mean you only get 3 strips instead of 4, as you would in FF cabinets? On the lower cabinets, do you use a solid top or just strips in the front to complete the box look?
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Best thing to do is run out and find Danny Proulx's book Building Frameless Kitchen Cabinets. It is a complete manual of how to build them and will answer any questions you have. While you're out, buy an English/metric tape measure. Fastcap has a great one.
Depths: I go with 600mm/23 3/4 so as to get two rips/sheet. Uppers - 300mm/11 3/4. I don't work to 25 counters since all the jobs I do usually have stone or solid surface and are custom fit. Solid tops are best, but you can do cleats in front and back.
I think you run into trouble on the finish ends unless you use a thick edgeband with regard to multiples of 24 and 12 plus saw kerfs. If you use an applied frame and panel finished end, this becomes a non-issue.
Frameless Kitchen Base Cabinet
On the rest of the carcass parts, you have the thickness of the cabinet back to make it possible to net two base cabinet rippings and 4 wall cabinet rippings from a standard 48 wide sheet.
I think most makers use 3 or 4 wide stringers on the tops of base cabinets instead of a solid top, especially on a sink cabinet.
Thanks. Finished ends are always a small problem anyway. You always need a larger piece so that you can do a wall scribe on FF cabs. So that wasn't really an issue.
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I hate to disagree, but the finished cabinet depth is supposed to be 24 including door thickness, with the 25 deep counter depth overhanging 1 full inch. You were correct in your initial dimensions of 23 1/4 box with 3/4 door. Go to any kitchen dealer and look at all the showroom setups and this will lay to rest any doubt in your mind who to believe.
Oh good.... conflicting answers. I would tend to think that a total 24 depth would be correct, as long as there was a door or drawer front on it. If it was an open shelving style cabinet, I would think the box itself would be 12 or 24 deep. Okay, set me straight now. Can somebody measure one and confirm the depth? I have no real cabinet distributors near me that I can take a quick measure from.
I thought base cabinets needed to be 24 to fit appliances. I used to think on islands and peninsulas it was okay to build a 23-1/4 base plus 3/4 back panel until I had to fit a set-in range. Needless to say, it didn't fit. It needed the whole 24.
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We build 95% frameless. Our base cabinet sides are 23 1/8 (with banding), plus 1/8 for bumpers, plus 3/4 front. Overall depth 24 from face of door/drawer to back of cabinet. On base cabinets, we maintain a reveal of 1/4 from the top stretcher (bottom of countertop) to the door/drawer front. We also use stretchers instead of a full top, and they are 4 1/2. That gives us better strength, and allows us to use two holes 64mm apart for screwing into the stretcher (leaving about 1 from the edge of the stretcher to the center of the hole).
We make our upper 15 overall, but that's where I'm probably a little different. I don't think 12 (leaving about 10 inside) is enough depth in uppers. We also make tall cabinets 26 deep to allow for the countertop to die into the sides. For finished ends, we use separate applied ends, mostly beefed up to 1 1/2 thick. We also do separate toekicks.
A 24 cabinet, to the face of the doors/drawers, will fit appliances just fine. We do it all the time, and have no problems. In frameless, the appliances sit flush with the front of the door/drawer. In face frame, they sit flush with the front of the face frame.
Standard Kitchen Base Cabinet Dimensions: Cabinets 101
The base cabinet box I build is 24 deep, plus the 3/4 for the door or drawer front. My overlap of countertop is 3/4, for a total of 25 1/2 on base cabinets. Wall cabinets, the box is 12 deep plus 3/4 for the door.
I have always built my bases at 24 with a 3mm edgeband. I have not paid that much attention to yield because I nest my parts and then cut them on the panel saw. I figure that it will
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