The 40mm thick solid oak worktops need to be oiled before installation. Basically, oils which cure, e.g. by oxidation are suitable. So Olive oil and others are not suitable for oiling wood surfaces or these oils are always moisturizing which is not desirable (who likes oil on the clothes?). Here the Auro countertop oil No. 108 on linseed oil basis was used. Important when handling linseed oil: cloths soaked with linseed oil can ignite themselves. Therefore, store the linseed oil rags in a tinplate container and / or burn in an oven.
That sounds more dangerous than it is. Linseed oil is a natural product which hardens by chemical reaction with atmospheric oxygen. This creates heat. The linseed oil is applied to the worktops with a foam roller fed and evenly. The oil must stand on the worktop so that the wood can absorb the oil within a maximum of 30 minutes.
After 30 minutes at the latest, the oil should not have dried, otherwise you will not get it polished down from the surface of the wood and you need to sand it down if necessary. The oil is first removed from the wood surface by means of a kitchen roll. Then the surface is dry-polished with a cotton cloth, for example.
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The whole process is repeated after 24 hours. If you want, you can oil the worktop a third time. With the described procedure you get a wonderful result. The wooden surface appears in a silky matt sheen. After the final oiling the worktops are placed on the appropriate furniture and screwed with these. It is recommended to pre-drill small. The biggest challenge was moving the worktop into the living room. After all, the long worktop is over 3.60 meters long.
This shows now that the facing bricks were tiled to the correct height on the back wall. 🙂 If the assembly of the long worktop was pretty easy, mounting the two short halves next to the Domsjö double sink is a bit more difficult. Again, the laser heals very well when aligning exactly. Using the laser line, the edges of the two halves can be aligned. It is recommended to leave a few millimeters distance to the sides and to the mirror back wall. This is where spacers with a defined dimension help.
In the end everything fits perfectly. Now you only have to fit the end strips on the long worktop and pull the connection joints with silicone.
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We use cookies to ensure that we give you the best experience on our website. If you continue to use this site we will assume that you are happy with it.OKNoGeneral Data Protection RegulationToday is countertop day! Can I get a holla?! Yes, we are still talking about our IKEA kitchen. DIYing an IKEA kitchen is no joke. So. Much. Work! The countertops were not DIY (thank goodness) – IKEA sent a crew over to measure and install the countertops. We are super happy with them and am glad we purchased them through IKEA.
When we ordered our kitchen through IKEA we told them we wanted to purchase the countertops also. We chose our material and they did a rough square footage to come up with the cost. They also gave us their 3rd party company that installs the counters and told us to call them when we were ready to schedule the templating.
IKEA also told us that if we had the countertop company come out and the kitchen wasn’t 100% ready, they would not template. They needed the kitchen finished – including all filler pieces. They didn’t need every aspect of the kitchen finished, but wherever the countertop was going to touch cabinets or filler, those areas needed to be 100% finished.
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As you can see in these photos, areas like the pantry and upper cabinets are not finished with all the filler, but since the counter wasn’t going to touch those areas we didn’t need them complete.
I called the countertop company and scheduled them about a week out. That gave me a week to get the kitchen completely ready for the templating. I was up late the night before finishing little details at the last minute.
The templating process was fascinating! I wasn’t sure how they would do it, and watching the guy work was enlightening. Maybe I’m the only one who geeks out over this stuff, but I thoroughly enjoyed learning the process of coutnertops.
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They used strips of balsa wood. Balsa wood is very soft and cuts easily. He laid out the strips and hot glued them together. Then he took a utility knife and easily cut the excess off.
You can see how he made the small section for the wrap-around counter. This kitchen is starting to take shape and I am more than excited about it!
They took all these templates back to their shop to cut the counters. I guess I assumed they would just measure a lot and then transpose it to the countertops, but they used these real templates as stencils to cut the counters perfectly.
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About a week later they showed back up with the cut counters. The first one to go on was our island overhang. Oh the excitement of seeing this finally and being able to visualize sitting here!
Here’s our sink and wrap-around counter being slid into place. I am thrilled that they were able to do the mini countertop on the same slab and reduce the number of seams in the kitchen.
I’m not exactly sure how it works. I don’t know if it’s just holding the seams together tightly while glue dries, or if it heats it or what, but the seams are tight after this.
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They also installed the under-mount sink. I forgot to mention, when they did the template, they took the sink back to the shop with them to make sure they had a perfect fit before coming back to install everything.
Once the sink was in place they drilled a hole for the faucet. I opted to have only one hole drilled. He suggested to do another one for soap, but I didn’t want extra holes in my new counter.
I couldn’t wait to unpack our new barstools and put them under the counter. Lots of time will be spent sitting at these barstools!
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