In my career as a cabinetmaker, I worked on kitchens all over New York City, from modest remodels in Flatbush to lavish rooms for movie stars on the Upper West Side. In a cabinetmaker's ideal world, I would have loaded my completed cabinets on a truck at the shop and let someone else install them... avoiding the traffic jams, parking tickets, scary freight elevators and imperious co-op board reps.
But the installation phase of cabinetwork is where the chickens come home to roost-and I got tired of the eggs that installers so frequently lay. Unless I installed the cabinets myself, I couldn't rescue my handiwork from the real world's sagging floors, un-square, out-of-plumb walls-much less the inevitable accumulation of small planning and measurement errors between a project's conception and installation.
It's best to have all of the cabinets, appliances and fixtures on hand at the start of installation. Carefully compare the measurements of the actual articles to the dimensions shown on the plans.
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The space should be fully prepared. It's a good idea to have installed ¾-in. plywood or 2-by-6 blocking on the same plane as the wall framing where upper and lower cabinets will be fastened. You can't always find a stud where you need one. Finished flooring should also be in place; protect it with hardboard panels taped to the floor.
When you're ready to start, walk around the space and set a level on the floor. Determine where the high point is. Make a mark on the wall 34-1/2 in. above the high point, then use it as a reference to snap three level horizontal guidelines around the room wherever base cabinets are to be installed:
Collect your base cabinets and starting in a corner, set each in place on the floor without fastening. Leave spaces for the refrigerator, dishwasher and other appliances that sit on the floor based on their actual measurements. Study the dry layout and determine:
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Once you've worked out any potential adjustments for the base cabinets, set the wall cabinets in position from left to right on top of them. Determine if the upper and lower units will fit and align vertically, as shown in the plans. You should get an indication of where you may need to insert filler panels between cabinets to set things into alignment.
The first step to installing wall cabinets is to join units within a run together. The joining procedures for face-frame style cabinets and frameless cabinets differ slightly.
In most cases, the stiles of a face-frame extend 3/16-in. to ¼-in. beyond the cabinet sides. To keep things square when the cabinets are joined, you must insert spacers between the sides of adjoining cabinets-3/8-in. plywood scraps or plastic spacers generally serve the purpose well. Before starting to join cabinets, glue four spacers to the mating side of one cabinet that will be joined to another. Place the spacers in the locations where fasteners will be driven-that is, 1 in. below the top and 1 in. above the bottom, toward the front and toward the back.
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Joining frameless cabinets is easier than face-frames since you don't have to insert spacers between cabinets. Just follow the steps above, but note that since screw heads near the front of the cabinets won't be concealed by the face-frame, it's usually a neater job to join frameless cabinets with decorative fasteners such as Powerhead screws (fastcap.com) or cabinet bolts.
Once cabinets are joined, it's a good idea to pre-drill holes in the mounting rails at the back of each cabinet and drive screws partially in. Two #10 2-1/2-in. or 3-in. wood screws will do the trick. Don't use drywall screws; they don't have enough shear strength.
If you're working by yourself (and even if you have one or more helpers), it's a hard balancing act to lift and hold an assembled bank of cabinets in place for fastening. Some pros use mechanical cabinet lifters, which are nice but expensive to buy, and hard to find as rentals. Most, however, make their own temporary supports, like the one shown (below), from scrap lumber.
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If the joined wall cabinets are too heavy for you to lift onto the temporary supports, disassemble them into manageable units by removing some screws. The assembly work that you did on the floor won't be wasted since the screw holes will make it easier to align and rejoin the cabinets when they're supported against the wall.
Lift the wall cabinets onto the supports. Be certain that the back bottom edge rests directly on your level horizontal guideline, then fasten the cabinets to the wall with #10, 2-1/2 or larger screws driven through the fastening rails at the back, top and bottom. Check the face of the cabinets for plumb and adjust as necessary by inserting shims between the wall and cabinet back.
You should have identified locations where you need to cut openings in the base cabinet backs for plumbing and electrical hookups, and made the cuts. Rails and end panels that need to be scribed to fit against out-of-plumb walls should have been altered.
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When you're done with the fastening, check for gaps where end panels are supposed to meet walls, and at the cabinet bases. Small gaps can often be filled with paintable caulk (siliconized latex). Larger gaps can be concealed with quarter-round or shoe-base moldings that match the cabinet finish.
Finally, install the door and drawer pulls. It's best to make your layout marks on the face of the doors and drawer fronts when they're already in place, to assure alignment. Drill the holes from the face toward the back to avoid unsightly breakout on the visible fronts.
About the author: Michael Chotiner has a background as a general contractor and cabinetmaker. He writes for The Home Depot about DIY and home improvement topics such as how to install cabinets. You can visit The Home Depot online to view a wide selection of kitchen cabinets.With the changing times and increasing popularity of aesthetic & trendy structures, almost all urban homes have embraced the concept of modular kitchens. These kitchen styles not only make the cooking space look beautiful but also provide a wide range of utilities to their end users.
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They help in increasing the storage space, ensuring proper space for ventilation, decluttering the shelves and tops and providing a range of decorative options to make it more elegant and appealing. Now such robust structures require sturdy and reliable build that is possible by quality fastening solutions.
Which solution to use and why is the million-dollar question that needs answering. Don’t worry, our experts have curated a list of high-quality and high-performance screws for kitchen cabinets that perfectly fit the bill.
Hands down, ss chipboard screws are the go-to solution when it comes to the construction of kitchen cabinets. Their strong affinity for light wood, easier installation and minimum maintenance requirement makes them one of the best options in modular kitchen construction.
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All these benefits are made possible by their razor-sharp thread structure, slim shank and head style that ensures a robust and reliable joint is formed between objects.
When it comes to having a firm grip with a screw that is not vulnerable to bursting or splitting while doing light wooden works, CSK Phillips stands tall among the rest. It is the unique combination of strength, durability and custom sizes that gives it the edge over other types of screws. A lot of door knobs, handles and foldable joints are made possible with this type of screw.
Known in the industry as the benchmark of toughness, drywall screws are used in a wide variety of applications from hinges, and door handles, to latches and rotating cabinets. They are much sturdier and more powerful than their MS counterparts.
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A special unique selling point of these screws for kitchen cabinets is their ability to handle heavy loads effortlessly, this comes in handy in wall mounting of modular constructions and hanging of other kitchen equipment like shelves and equipment frames.
As per the American Society of Mechanical Engineers, machine screws are screws up to 0.75 inches in diameter, as such they are smaller than other screws but deliver far more performance and strength. These screws as the name suggests are a staple in a variety of construction-related industries like electronics, woodworking and automobiles. Their small size works to their advantage and they can be easily hidden behind modular construction. As such machine screws don’t protrude much and help in retaining the design language of the modular kitchen. Where they truly shine is the performance and versatility part, they are available in a variety of head styles from hex head, pan head, and oval head to truss and flat head, and are able to resist damage due to rust, moisture and corrosion.
As evident from their name, wood screws work best with different types of wood and lightweight furniture. They are excellent choices for the joining of chipboard, MDF, and ply. Their faster installation, easier drilling and amazing tightening capabilities make them flexible to be used in a variety of applications.
X Body Screws 4.0 X 30 Spax Back Wall Screw Partially Threaded Cabinet Connector Furniture Screw Kitchen Cabinet Wall Cabinet
They possess a flat head with threaded shank and sharp tip to make them the
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