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I have recently had to tackle a problem with my IKEA Faktum kitchen and its Rationell drawers, drawer fronts, and coverpanels. The instructions in the manual were very clear on how to assemble the drawers, but they fell a little short of telling me how to disassemble the drawers again.
I was wondering why that was because I know quite a few people who would gladly move their IKEA kitchen when they change houses (or flats or apartments, for that matter). But it seems that nobody on the company side has taken this into consideration.
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With the manual. Well, anyway, here it is, the answer to the question: How do I disassemble / take apart IKEA Rationell drawers? The answer applies to the 2008/2009 and later series. Earlier series had a different mechanism as it appears...
The shortest possible way (if you can reach the bottom of the drawer) is to use a small flat screwdriver to press on the little white nipple (or whatever you may call it) to lift it and release the drawers from the bar. I marked the nipple with a red arrow in the photograph.
Especially if you cannot easily reach the drawer bottom (for example because you're dealing with the bottom drawer), you may want to try a different way which I will describe step-by-step fashion. First we will take off the drawer front, then we will remove the drawer from the bar. First of all, we need to open the lock at the front end of the Rationelle drawer (the grey rectangular latches on both sides of the drawer).
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Then you can pull it out of its lock (next picture).You will get access to the adjustment screws too, by the way.
If you remove the latches on both sides of the Rationell drawer, you can gently pull out the drawer front and thus get access to the lock that connects the drawer with the runners. If you look at it from the front, you will realize the bottom end of the white plastic shark fin ends in a nipple or tongue that locks with the clamp in the runners (the next photo shows it in released position before locking).
Now the tongue will be resting in the counterpiece when you take off the cover panel, and it is this happy union which will make you sweat when traing to take the drawers apart.
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To release the drawers from the bars no other method such as applying brute force, explosives or even waiting patiently will work. You will need a flat screwdriver to gently move the nipple out of its counterpiece. It will noticeably snap out, but be gentle for you don't want the tongue to break.
Don't forget to release the lock mechanism on both sides (you can do one side after the other). Have fun with your IKEA kitchen again! :)After installing a second prep sink as a non-IKEA stainless steel sink and all the plumbing (drain, waste, vent & supply lines), we wanted to maximize the storage space with additional drawers.
To match the remainder of our kitchen cabinets, we of course were using Maximera Drawers, with either the flat white inside false fronts, or the Dark Gray Axstad drawer fronts.
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I am very pleased with the results. Despite the annoying sound of a jigsaw cutting metal I would recommend this DIY for anyone doing an IKEA kitchen with a non-IKEA kitchen sink, and thinking the under sink space is only good for garbage cans!
More on IKEA MAXIMERA drawers • Full-extension slides for full view and to access what’s inside the drawer. • Dampers ensure soft closing — drawers close gently and quietly. • Versatile configuration — eg, short drawers (for cutlery) with a high drawer (for plates) — giving you plenty of options to effectively organize kitchen cabinets. • Lots of interior organizers and dividers to maximise space. • Containers like trays, baskets and bins keep products like cleaning supplies, spray bottles and household essentials organized.
1. Verify that all your plumbing is done, and is leak free.We took extra effort to ensure the plumbing (in this case coming up from the bottom through the cabinet) was as far back in the cabinet as possible.Plan Ahead!
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In our case everything was far enough back to use the 18″ depth drawer on the bottom, and the15″ depth on the top justunder the sink.
Wait on attaching the false fronts to the drawer boxes, but assemble everything else as per the instructions. Again — do not attach the fronts yet!
3. Before installing the slide-in drawer bottom, add a couple of blobs of construction adhesive on the metal grooveof the drawer back, where thedrawer bottom will pop in, as well as the little bump-ups that the cut groove slides on in the metal drawer sides.
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Then slide the drawer bottom all the way in, and clean up any glue that smooshes out.Let this set up for a good overnight.
5. Based on the hinge locations, the bottom drawer slides will need to mount into the cabinet holes #4 up from the bottom.
6. Measuring from the underside of the sink, the top drawer will need to clear the underside of the sink basin. This takes a bit of measuring, and is dependent on your sink. For this one, our sink is 9″ deep, and the top of the top drawer is about 21″ up from the inside bottom of the cabinet. This may take some trial and error.
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7. Pop the drawers onto the drawer slides. You may need to reach underneath and pull the slides out so the drawers click in correctly.Push them in until you hit plumbingpipes, the sink trap, etc.
You need to see really well the obstacles — what is hitting what, so you can cut away the back pieces of the pull-out drawers (the metal part), and the wood drawer bottom, as required to clear the various plumbing.
As long as the drawer slides and sides are still free to go back and forth for their full run, the drawer “pan” can be cut away accordingly.I used a pencil or a sharpie and just generously traced out what I thought would clear the pipes, etc.
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9. First, I did the top drawer, then the bottom drawer, each separately, so you can see what is hitting what, marking accordingly.
10. I started the cuts with a metal hacksaw, and then finished them with a cordless jigsaw with a metal blade. Go slow, wear safety glasses, and enjoy the banshee scream of metal cutting metal!
13. Go back and pop the drawers in all the way, getting that satisfying click as they make the full trip all the way back. You may need to cut more, and if so repeat steps 8-13 as required until all is good.
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14. Because I had to cut a portion of the drawer bottom for the upper drawer to clear the sink drain, I used some old IKEA shelf, cut it into a fancy mitred-edge infill for the back of the drawer. Then, using the trusty PL Premium glue, slathered it up and clamped it overnight. Painter’s tape on the mitres holds them tight enough until the glue bonds.
Jules Yap started in 2006 as a personal blog to showcase the most impressive IKEA hacks from all over the world. Since then, she has learned a lot more about power tools and DIY. Her site has helped thousands modify IKEA furniture with step-by-step tutorials, craft projects and home styling.
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