Cabinet Face Dimensions Thoughts about choosing practical and attractive dimensions for face frames, cabinet door stiles and rails, and drawer fronts. April 18, 2006
In the past I have been building exclusively overlay face frame cabinets, but lately I have been getting some inset door jobs. For the overlay doors I have been making all perimeter rails and stiles 1-3/4 inches and all middle stile and rails at 2-1/4 inches, so I end up with 1-1/4 inch of all of the stiles and rails exposed with my 1/2 inch overlay doors. I have used the same stile and rail width on the first few inset jobs out of habit but it seems like they are too wide proportionally with the inset doors, so now I have gone to using all 1-1/4 inch stiles and rails and it looks better. What sizes are the rest of you using? So far I haven't done any beaded frames.
I use 1-1/2 for all stiles and mid rails, regardless of frame style. For overlay jobs, the reveal between all doors/drawers is 1/2. On beaded inset, the bead amount is added to the 1-1/2 width, which is usually 3/8 with the 1/4 bead normally used.
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Our typical cabinet is flush inset with a full face frame. About half of these jobs have butt hinges and the other half are a combination of Blum and Salice. We have some really simple systems for doing this. We've written some software that chases a lot of this math for us. If you change the countertop height, the rest of math is upgraded automatically. It's all based on rules and the rules change based upon conditions. The dimensions for the cabinets are established parametrically. If we have a shaker style project these are our typical proportions. Note that the size of the individual elements change based on where they situate on the face frame. Stiles are the same size as bottom rails. Mullions are smaller than stiles and muntins are smaller than mullions. In every case the bottom rail on the door is heavier than the top rail. Good proportions are something that sneak up on you and make you feel good about being in the room. Once you figure them out for a particular genre of cabinetry you can focus on another issue.
Where we use 57 mm for a shaker door we switch to 64mm for an ogee door. Note that the top drawer is typically 15% of the overall floor to counter height. This is a percentage that works well with counters that are 36-37 or 38 inches tall. This is also the number that drives everything else. The holes for our drawer slides always situate 37 mm from the top side of the bottom face frame element. This way you can interchange Blum Tandem slides with Accuride Side Mount slides. The important thing is to develop a system for your math. Figure out what looks good then get good at reproducing that.
Once you start doing flush inset you will discover some other advantages. Your doors and drawer face alignments only have to look good within the context of one opening at a time. This is different than making a matrix of a dozen door or drawer faces line up across a room. Beaded face frames are easiest of all because it's really hard to see an alignment problem when you juxtapose square edges to round corners. Beaded face frame cabinets also sell for more money.
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2 stiles and 1-1/2 rails. The proportions of the horizontal to the vertical look better, in my opinion. The difference is what causes interest. If everything is equal it can look very boring. Again, this is only my opinion but I have done plenty this way. It is a traditional look but has good staying power.
To contributor E: I agree on the width variation except I do it with the doors. I use 3 rails and 2-1/4 stiles for that very reason.
Ours are anywhere from 3/4 to 10, all depending on design - French, Italian, English, Russian, rustic, neo classical, African, Appalachian abstract, and sometimes arts and crafts Asian contemporary retro, etc.A well-designed kitchen is an important aspect of any home. In this guide, I will discuss everything you need to know about Australian standard kitchen dimensions.
Guide To Standard Kitchen Cabinet Dimensions And Sizes
The kickboard height can range between 100mm to 200mm. The kickboard depth (from the front of the floor cabinet carcass excluding the door) is 50mm. (See Fig 1)
This is the distance between the finished floor and the top of the benchtop. However, the working benchtop height can be within the range of 850mm to 1050mm. (See Fig. 2)
The ideal benchtop height (in relation to your own height) is just below your elbow! A good rule of thumb to find the ideal benchtop height is to clench your fist and place it below your crooked elbow. The lowest part of the fist is the ideal benchtop height!
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You must be mindful when working with kitchen benchtop heights around the 1050mm height range. Appliances such as dishwashers will end up having a large gap between itself and the benchtop. You could consider raising the height of the dishwasher by putting a drawer underneath it or by putting a drawer above it.
This allows enough space for seating and comfortable dining while still providing enough support for the countertop. It's important to note that the exact benchtop depth may vary depending on the specific design of the breakfast bar, the height of the stools, and the preferences of the homeowner.
Island benchtop depth can vary depending on the specific needs of the user and the layout of the kitchen. Standard island benchtop depths are;
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If the island benchtop will be used primarily for food preparation or as a workspace for hobbies or crafts, a deeper countertop of 900mm (36) may be more suitable.
It's important to keep in mind that the depth of the countertop should also take into account the clearance needed for seating if the island will be used as a dining area. A typical overhang for a countertop with seating is 300mm (12), so the total depth would be 900 to 1200mm (36 to 47) in this case.
Overall, the best depth for a kitchen island will depend on the specific needs and preferences of the user, as well as the overall design of the kitchen.
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It is made with a 32mm thick particle board or MDF substrate and a 0.8 mm thick piece of laminate glued to it.
Of course, the thickness of the benchtop will vary as it is dependent on the type of material used. Other benchtop materials include granite, limestone or engineered stones such as Caesarstone. They are usually 20mm thick slabs and for thicker tops, the edge is built up by another 20mm.
This does not include the kickboard. Floor cabinet depth ideally should not exceed 600mm (handles excluded). The standard floor cabinet depth is 580mm inclusive of door thickness.
Door Dimensions And Hinge Requirements
Standard dimensions for stock or DIY base (floor) cabinets are 720mm high by 560mm deep (without the door). Floor cabinet widths generally increase by 100 or 150mm increments (See Fig. 3).
The maximum door width for a base cabinet is 600mm. This is due to the door weight loading on the door hinges. If the door was any wider then the doors would tend to sag under the weight. You can overcome this by putting two hinges at the top of the door (one hinge under the other).
Wall cabinet depth ideally should not exceed 350mm (handles excluded). There should be 280mm minimum clear space from the back of the cupboard. I personally prefer a 300mm minimum clear space so you can store large diameter plates with ease.
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Standard dimensions for stock or DIY wall cabinets are 720mm high by 300mm deep (without the door). As for the floor cabinets, wall cabinet widths generally increase by 100mm or 150mm increments (See Fig. 4).
See Fig 5. The height is determined by adding up the floor cabinet height, benchtop thickness, splashback height and wall cabinet height (720mm + 33mm + 600mm + 720mm = 2073mm +/- 20mm). The standard tall cabinet depth is 600mm.
The kitchen height is determined by adding up the kickboard height, floor unit height, benchtop thickness, splashback height and wall unit height:
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Fig. 5 – The standard kitchen height can easily be worked out by adding up the kickboard, floor cabinet, benchtop, splashback and wall cabinet height. Bonus points will be awarded if you can work out the missing dimension!
The minimum splashback height is 450mm. If you have a wall unit over a sink then there should be a minimum of 600mm splashback height between the top of the sink and the bottom of the wall unit.
A long while back it used to be a commonly accepted practice in the Australian kitchen industry to leave a standard fridge space 1800mm high x 900mm wide x 600mm deep.
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This 'standard fridge space' would accomodate most types of top mounted fridges available in Australia, as this was the most popular fridge type at that time.
The under bench oven can be used as a wall oven (and vice-versa).
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